Seed Planting and Care Instructions – Part 1
Before I make decisions regarding which seeds to plant in my garden each season, I usually check the Internet for suggestions. I can always find those types of recommendations, but I don’t always see detailed advice on how and when to plant them, or how to care for them once they start growing.
Just in case you’re in the same boat, here is the first in a series of suggestions on starting and caring for a variety of plants that will grow from your non-hybrid seeds.
Beet Detroit Dark Red. Soak your seeds overnight to help soften them and speed up the germination process. Direct sow these seeds outside as soon as the ground can be worked, even if it’s two to three weeks before the last expected frost. They can also be planted in the fall. If you want a longer harvest, sow them every three weeks or so. Plant the seeds about four inches apart and about ½ inch below the soil surface. Rows should be spaced 12 to 18 inches apart. The soil should be fertile, weed-free and regularly moisturized. These plants may be susceptible to aphids, carrot weevils, flea beetles, leaf miners, leafhoppers and slugs.
Black Turtle Bean. Because they don’t respond very well to transplanting, direct sow these seeds just after the last spring frost. If they’re planted too early, they could rot in cool and damp soil. Plant the seeds one to two inches deep and four to six inches apart, with at least two feet between rows. These beans can be finicky. Too much moisture can result in mildew or mold, but they will also drop blossoms during a heat wave. They do best in fertile, draining soil with compost worked in and a weed-free environment. They are resistant to many diseases and can tolerate very hot conditions.
Blue Lake Bush Bean. Plant in the early spring after danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed to at least 60 degrees F. Coat the bean seeds with bean and pea inoculant for best results. Direct sow these seeds one to two inches deep and two to three inches apart in hills separated by 30 to 36 inches. The soil should be watered immediately and regularly until sprouting occurs. The quality of the soil is not as important with this hardy plant as it is with many others. If the leaves appear pale, add a natural, nitrogen-rich fertilizer. These plants are vulnerable to rot and soil-borne diseases, some of which can be avoided by not growing them in the same garden beds two years in a row.
Broccoli Green Sprouting. Sow these seeds indoors before the last frost in colder climates, or direct sow them outside after the last frost. Plant seeds about ¼ inch under the soil surface with 18 to 30 inches between plants in rows three feet apart. This plant will do best with sunlight, but cooler temperatures are fine. The soil should be fertile, well drained and moist, and be sure to add plenty of organic matter rich in nitrogen. Seeds of cold-hardy broccoli can be sown in the early fall, with plants being produced late the following spring. These plants may be susceptible to black rot, black leg, downy mildew, flea beetles, ring spot, club root, white mold, white rust, powdery mildew, cabbageworm and thrips.
Cabbage Golden Acre. Sow these seeds indoors prior to the last frost, or sow them directly outside after the last frost. Plant the seeds ¼ to ½ inch under the surface of the soil. If planting indoors, they should be separated by six inches. If planting outdoors, allow six to 18 inches between the plants. Cabbage plants will grow best in cooler weather. In warmer areas, you can plant them in late winter for a spring harvest and/or in late summer for a fall crop. The soil should be firm and fertile for best results. These plants may be susceptible to aphids, caterpillars, cabbage loopers, flea beetles, cabbageworms, club root, fusarium wilt and downy mildew.
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Thanks Frank. That is good information. I have three problems perhaps you or someone else can help with. I live in an area where the sun really beats down on the plants. Almost desert conditions, if you will. Any way my problem is when to plant since I have no frost to speak of; yet to avoid the desert heat so as not to kill the plants. (If I water too muck the plants will die; if I don’t water enough they will wilt due to the heat.) Any advise is welcomed. 2.) I have a large puppy that loves to dig. I have replaced my garden three times now and now it is too late to replant. I have put up fencing; but being a Rottie, he just loves to dig and chew. I have chained him to a tree far away from my garden; but, mistakes are made and of course my wife releases him from the tree and there goes my garden again. The dog is just a puppy and has an attention span of a two year old. Any tricks other than getting rid of him that will keep him from digging? Third, and I know this sounds funny but it is the truth, I don’t know when to pick my produce. I either pick too early or to late. I’m a city guy. Any suggestions? Thanks
I keep my 2 Rotties inside in the air conditioning since it gets so hot here in South Florida. I only let them out to do their business in just one part of the yard that is fenced and barricaded high since mine like to jump. I plant my garden in the other part of the yard. We also go for walks so they can get their exercise. (Helps me get some too!)
Our growing season here starts in November once it finally gets cooler and runs basically until June. After that it is just too hot for tomatoes & some other plants. I did have some luck this past summer with Hot Peppers, Green Peppers, Ginger, and Kale plus some herbs like Basil, Rosemary, & Mint surviving the heat & they are still going strong now. I also had fantastic luck with Lemon Grass which is growing very tall & bushy. FYI, Rotties love to eat Lemon Grass so this is the 3rd plant which I had planted very far away from their area since they ate the ones that were planted in their area. Lemon Grass also repels mosquitos which is why I had tried planting it everywhere in the first place. Now, just cut some blades/fronds of the Lemon Grass & carry it with me while outside or put it on the table.
Hope this helps. Good luck!
I have hoses stretched out to the plants that I got with a little help from Amazon. I water at night around midnight or later for just a few minutes everyday. Once a month I give the plants a real good soaking. This seems to be working well for me however I am still doing trial and error.
Make sure you put rabbit fencing around your beets, beans and other green leafy vegetables. And, eliminate any chipmunks or tree squirrels, as they will dig up your newly planted seeds and eat them. Cucumbers and squash aren’t as desirable to rabbits, once they sprout, as they have a natural defense, small spikes on their leaves.
My concern regarding the Seeds I bought from you is the fact I live in deep South Texas (Zone 10-11) and I did not notice any heat resistant seeds. Like today 2/11/16 it is 83 degrees here and I understand that pollination is a problem above 80 degrees.